Archive for December, 2011


Alternative Keyboards 1

I’m not sure exactly which department this topic should go in, but I’ve added ‘Software/MIDI’ as the advent of these two things has made the possibility of using alternative keyboard layouts very much a practical proposition. I’ve been experimenting with these and come up with some relatively low-cost ways of trying them out.

The purpose of this post is to explain what ‘alternative keyboard layouts’ are – as opposed to ‘alternative methods of controlling synths’ or ‘alternative methods of generating musical notes’, which I deal with elsewhere in the blog. Although there’s undoubtedly an overlap between these things, I’d like to talk here about some specific proposals that have been made over the years to improve the traditional piano/organ keyboard – certainly appealing to those who are non-players of the instruments, but also with a specific appeal to trained keyboard players and those with a keen interest in music theory.

I’ll get into the music theory aspect, insofar as I understand it myself, later; and follow-up posts here will describe the different ways I’ve tried putting alternative keyboard layout ideas into practice.

To begin at the beginning, the conventional piano keyboard, with its line of large white keys interrupted by thin black keys, although a familiar and iconic design, isn’t necessarily the easiest way to play or learn to play music: you have to hold your arms at an odd, straight-on angle to the keyboard; it’s a long stretch from one note to the next octave up or down; you have to move your hands to different positions to play chords in different keys, and so on. Ultimately we might also consider how difficult it makes things if you want to play music using divisions of the musical scale which are different from the 12-note one we in the West are used to.

It was a long time ago, certainly as early as the 19th century, when people began to think of replacing the one-dimensional line of keys found on pianos and organs with a two-dimensional bank of keys, like the bank of keys on a typewriter (or this computer keyboard I’m using now).

It was quickly realised that there would be more than one advantage to this arrangement: notes could be repeated in several places on different rows, allowing the player to find the easiest way to play a particular passage (players of stringed instruments are used to this and wouldn’t want to be without it!); notes which are far apart on the conventional keyboard could be placed closer together, enabling even those with small hands to play chords or melodic passages with large intervals; and, most importantly of all, the keys could be distributed in such a way that the pattern of a particular chord would be exactly the same, no matter which key it was played in, and the pattern of a melodic passage would be the same, no matter which note it started on.

It is this latter feature which leads to the name often given as a description of this type of keyboard – ‘isomorphic’. Well-known isomorphic keyboard layouts were invented by Paul von Jankó and Kaspar Wicki in the 19th Century, and in the 20th Century, Brian Hayden independently developed a system similar to Wicki’s, which one often sees described as the Wicki-Hayden system.

This is a picture of a piano with a Janko keyboard layout. As you can see, there are still white notes and black notes, but not in the same pattern as on a conventional piano, and there are 6 rows of keys:


[Photograph of piano with Janko keyboard at the Musikinstrumenten-Museum, Berlin by Morn the Gorn (Own work) [CC-BY-SA-3.0 ( or GFDL (], via Wikimedia Commons’]

This diagram of the Wicki-Hayden layout shows how the notes are placed in relation to one another. The keys themselves may be buttons, as they are on a concertina or accordion (Brian Hayden was a concertina player), but the hexagonal pattern used here emphasizes the importance of diagonal relationships between the notes, and relates to the method often used in modern electronic instruments of using hexagonal keys set out in exactly this way.


[Diagram of the Wicki-Hayden note layout used on some button accordions and some isomorphic button-field MIDI instruments by Waltztime (Own work) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons‘]

You can read about the Janko, the Wicki-Hayden, and a number of other isomorphic keyboard systems in the Wikipedia at:

Each of these pages contains numerous links to external sites, if you’d like to know more. I’ll be dealing with some of the issues that follow on from this, such as microtonality (as mentioned above, these two-dimensional layouts also lend themselves more readily to musical scales of more or less than 12 notes) and dynamic tonality in future posts.

You should also check out this site: which is also the home of the program MIDI Integrator, which I have used, and an interesting modern-day electronic instrument using an isometric keyboard (two, in fact) called the Jammer.

The Jammer, in turn, is a development along similar lines of an instrument called the Thummer – which almost reached the point of commercial production – and uses a keyboard called the AxiS-49, which is commercially available (from C-Thru Music at A larger version of this keyboard, the AxiS-64 is also produced:

All of these instruments these days are MIDI controllers, and YouTube is probably the best place to see them in action. This lengthy introduction to the AxiS-64 also serves as an illustration of many of the reasons why isomorphic keyboards were invented: You can also see the Thummer and the Jammer

There are hundreds more videos of these instruments and others, including a nice-looking Japanese synth called the Chromatone, which appears to be completely self-contained:

The next post in this department will be on methods of creating simple isomorphic keyboards, and the hardware and software I’ve used to create mine.



I must say I’m very fond of Stylophones!

The Stylophone, if you’ve never encountered one, is a small, hand-held monophonic instrument played by touching a stylus to a row of metal pads – the edge of a large printed circuit board – laid out like the keys of a piano. It was invented and first marketed in the 1960s, and is sometimes described as the world’s first mass-produced synthesizer.

In my view the Stylophone is an indispensable element in the arsenal of the electronic musician – it’s simple, distinctive-sounding, and most types are available at a reasonable price, with patience, from charity shops or on eBay. It’s also possible to make a number of straightforward – and some not-so-straightforward – modifications to it. I have described elsewhere in the blog some of the ones I’ve done.

Although largely the brainchild of engineer Brian Jarvis, accounts of its genesis in 1967 suggest that the Stylophone would never have seen the light of day without the encouragement and input of brothers Burt and Ted Coleman who, together with Jarvis, ran a company called Dübreq. Dübreq produced equipment for the film and broadcasting industry and their name is said to derive from their specialities of DUBbing and RECording, with the umlaut and the ‘q’ added to give the firm more of an international air (or perhaps, like Motörhead or Mötley Crüe, just to look cool!)

The marketing masterstroke which ensured the eternal popularity of the Stylophone was the engagement of the multi-talented London-based, but Australian-born entertainer, Rolf Harris. Even before production began, the Stylophone was introduced to the world on Harris’s popular Saturday TV show on the BBC, and, it is said, became an instant hit – despite at first being available only by mail-order from Dübreq at the frightening cost of 8 pounds 18 shillings and sixpence, around ninety-five pounds in today’s money!

Over the following decade a number of different versions of the Stylophone were produced. I have a treble – which is all white – a standard black, and a bass – also black. This latter wasn’t a production model, but the circuit diagram that came with the standard showed different component values for all these three types, so I modified a standard to produce the bass register, an octave below. I’ve subsequently modified this to produce a further octave below that – I call it ‘The Double Bass’ – but this is not a modification suggested by Dübreq themselves.

This is a circuit diagram of an early Stylophone. Note the details of alternative components: resistors in the top left and capacitors in the bottom left.

Stylophone schematic 2

There is also a later 1970’s version (the ‘New Sound’) with a fake wood fascia in place of the familiar metal grille. This latter has a feature noticeably absent from the earlier models – a volume control, a useful feature in the days before the ubiquitous earphones. Here is the component layout and schematic/circuit diagram from the booklet which came with it.

Layout and Circuit Diagram

It was not long after this, in 1975 or thereabouts, when production of the original Stylophone ceased; and this might have been the end of the Stylophone story, had Brian Jarvis’s son Ben not had the idea in the early 2000s of bringing it back. By 2007 the new Stylophone S1 was on sale, sufficiently similar to the original to be instantly recognisable, but with some updated features, including built-in input and output sockets and a three-way tone control.

Stylophone S1 2sm

It’s possible to do modifications on all these variations on the Stylophone design, even the S1. Despite the fact that the chip that does all the work in the S1 is very tiny and inaccessible, parts of the pitch and vibrato circuits are available, and the output stage is on a separate PCB. I was able to do some mods on a couple of these.

The ‘New Sound’, based on the very common 555 chip is easier to deal with, and I was able to do a lot with mine (see There are many circuits for 555-based oscillators in books and on the internet, and the 555 in the ‘New Sound’ is easily accessible for modding.

I haven’t done much with the original Stylophones – but these should be even easier, as the resistors which fix the pitches of the notes are exposed, and it should be possible to do things to these without too much trouble.

The biggest problem with the original and ‘New Sound’ Stylophones is likely to be the cost. Since these are sought after by collectors, they can fetch rather higher prices than you might want to pay for something which you intend to experiment on!

Many stars – other than Rolf Harris himself – have been publicly associated with the Stylophone. You can read about these on the Stylophone page in the Wikipedia at, and see pictures of them on Stylophonica, ‘the official home of the Stylophone’ at You can also learn more of the history of the Stylophone at (or, the Stylophone Collectors Information Site; buy a vintage Stylophone at, the Stylophone Sales Center; or even make your own Stylophone at!

You will also find out about the mighty Stylophone 350S, much larger than the ordinary Stylophone, with two styluses (styli?), more notes, more tones and a cunning light-sensitive filter/vibrato control. This also went out of production in the 1970s and has not so far been revived.

Stylophone 350s

These machines – wonderful thought they are, as you can see – can be seriously expensive, and you would probably want to think twice about having a go at the electronics in it without knowing what you were doing. Having said that, like the conventional Stylophones of the period, the electronics will be relatively straightforward compared to modern devices. A bit like cars, really – in the old days it was much easier for the amateur home mechanic to sort out engine problems: nowadays, there’s very little you can do. The 350S has many different ‘voices’ and that intriguing photocell circuit . . . there’s got to be some scope there.

A new type of Stylophone that has appeared in recent years is the Stylophone Beatbox: a drum machine playable – of course! – by means of a stylus, including percussion, vocal percussion and bass sounds, and able to record and replay sequences. I have some functioning ones, which may also be good for circuit-bending, and some non-functioning ones from which the attractive circular playing surface should be useful for other projects.


I used the case and the keyboard PCB of one of these for a Stylophone project, but not the sound-producing electronics as there were faults with the ones I acquired which I couldn’t fix.

Dübreq’s website at suggests there are more Stylophone products in the pipeline, but none, at the time of writing have appeared. Some other websites have been advertising the imminent arrival of the ‘Stylophone Remixxer’, but I’m not aware of any genuine sighting of such an object.


The Superstylonanophone

I wasn’t intending to get into MIDI instruments at the time I started on this project, and construction of the Superstylonanophone came about by accident when I acquired an apparently non-working Korg Nanopad.


Essentially, what it is is a cut-down Nanopad attached to a Stylophone, so that the middle 12 keys of the stylophone operate what would, in the Nanopad, have been the 12 pads.  The touch sensitivity of the original pads seems to have all but gone, which is a big loss – but the pads didn’t work at all on the device I acquired, so the present arrangement is an improvement on that.

I have since learned that stuck pads is a common fault in Nanopads, and there is currently an instructional video on YouTube at, uploaded by treilaux,*  telling you how to fix them.  If you have a Nanopad with stuck pads, you could do that instead of what I did; even if you don’t, you can see from that film how I took the Nanopad apart and detached the pad section from the electronics section.

*[Edit: this video disappeared for a while, but it’s back now.  While it was away, this note said try this one uploaded by TechinWorship, which details the same procedure, at:  As the intro to the video says, ‘Often times the trackpad will be responsive but the pads will not. This is due to normal wear and tear over time that causes the sensors to become jammed within the hardware. If this happens to just one of your pads, all will become unresponsive. Opening up your Nanopad and separating the sensors often returns your MIDI controller to like-new condition.’]

I continued by sawing off the large right-hand section of the Nanopad with the pads in it, and was left with just the circuit board, ‘Scene’, ‘Hold’, ‘Flam’ and ‘Roll’ buttons and the track pad.  I trimmed down the back as well, to fit the remaining piece of Nanopad front panel.

Nanopad 1

Everything was removed from inside the Stylophone (it was no longer working), except the PCB with the keyboard on it.

The difficult bit was connecting the Nanopad PCB to the Stylophone PCB.  This was not difficult in principle, but only in practice.  The Nanopad pads were operated by a plastic film connected to the PCB via a 14 way ZIF socket.  The connections on the PCB were too small for me to get at – just 1mm apart – so I was hoping to find a replacement 14 way jumper cable that would be long enough to go from the ZIF socket, out of the new Nanopad enclosure into the body of the Stylophone.

I couldn’t find one: it wasn’t a proper ribbon cable, but another thin plastic thing, and in the end I had to get a short one and solder a proper ribbon cable to another ZIF socket at the other end of it.  I managed to find a type with alternate pins pointing in opposite directions, giving me 2mm space between each one.

The other end of the ribbon cable attached to the backs of the 12 middle keys on the Stylophone PCB.  I chose C – B because these are the defaults for the Nanopad’s Scenes 2 – 4, which resemble a conventional keyboard.  You can change this with the Korg Kontrol Editor program, but there seemed no point.

The 14 lines from the Nanopad PCB to its pads were one connection for each pad, plus 2 control lines, one for the top row of pads and one for the bottom row.  I was gambling that these two control lines were, in fact the same, as the Stylophone’s stylus has only one wire going to it and I obviously wanted to be able to play all 12 notes.

Fortunately, I was right, so in the end only 13 connections were needed.  However, since the Nanopad is polyphonic, it seemed a bit of a waste not to take advantage of this, so I added a socket on the side for a second stylus.  This is connected to the same spot on the circuit board as the integral stylus.  After using the Stylonanophone for a short while, I realised that this is a great asset, especially for playing drums and percussion, even if only one note at a time is sounded.

Because foot controls would be more natural for some applications (e.g. bass drum and hi-hat, or bass pedals) I added an external socket for other input devices to connect to, giving access to all 12 notes.  I’ll be writing in more detail elsewhere about the switching systems I’ve devised, and later on in the blog about any of the input devices I’ve been working on, as and when they get finished.


The Nanopad doesn’t have MIDI in and out connections: instead, it has a built-in MIDI interface, and requires only a USB cable.  To allow for the possibility of future expansion (for example, I also have a Nanokeys I plan to work on), I decided to add a USB hub.  I found a flat square one that fitted into the base, and didn’t interfere with the vast amount of wiring inside the Stylophone body.  I superglued this in place.  The Superstylonanophone connects to this hub with a very short mini-USB to USB A cable, and the hub connects to the computer with a longer one.  The hub has proved very useful when I’ve needed to plug in more USB devices.

The Superstylonanophone logo, by the way, is just printed on a slip of paper tucked into the edging of the Nanopad trackpad.  This is easily removable, but isn’t thick enough to prevent the trackpad operating properly.  This was something I also saw on YouTube, at, uploaded by meltdownband.*

*[Edit: oh, dear – this video isn’t available either.  The procedure for adding the logo is very simple, though: just draw or print it on a piece of paper slightly larger than the visible trackpad and push the edges under the white plastic trackpad edging.  An ordinary thickness paper, like a printer or copier paper shouldn’t prevent the trackpad being used in the normal way.]


There are no sound files to go with this instrument, as it’s a MIDI controller, and can be used with any real or virtual MIDI instrument.

See this post for details of the foot controller I made to go with the Superstylonanophone.


The Big Boy – Mod 4

[Edit: the BigBoy, alas, is no more!  I irreparably damaged the  circuit . . . but now it lives on in the BigBoy Beatbox, which is described here].

Big Boy verticalsm

The creation of the Big Boy came about as the result of the blindingly simple, though ultimately pointless idea of transplanting the workings of a Stylophone into the body of a Stylophone Beatbox.

I had a number of broken donor Beatboxes, and proceeded to dismantle one of these.  There are 12 ‘keys’ on the circular board, laid out in a similar way to piano keys, or the keys of a Stylophone, so one octave was available.  I decided there should be three octaves, so had two challenges: one, to connect the Beatbox keyboard to the Stylophone keyboard; two, to add switches to change octaves.

Connecting the two boards together proved fairly simple.  FirstIy I had to saw off the end of the Stylophone board to make it fit into the Beatbox case, and although this made it impossible to use the higher notes, there were still at least 12 left.  So I used the lowest 12 keys, soldering one end of a wire to the middle of each key on the Stylophone board, and the other end of the wire to the connection on the edge of the Beatbox board for the appropriate key.  It was easy to see which key on the Beatbox board led to which connection on the edge.

There are also two built-in switches on the main Beatbox board, operated by depressing either side of a plastic ring around the keys.  I also made connections to these, for later use.

The existing on/off switch was used, with its associated LED, and the space taken by the 3 way slide switch used for selecting the drum, bass or vocal beatbox modes was used for the Stylophone 3 way tone switch.  The Beatbox stylus was attached to the place on the Stylophone output board where the Stylophone stylus had been attached.

I carefully removed the Stylophone tuning pot and used it to replace the Beatbox tuning pot on the small board which is attached to the inside of the base of the Beatbox.  One end terminal of the pot was attached by a wire to the place it was originally attached to on the Stylophone board; the centre terminal was connected to +V at the same place on the Stylophone output board as the stylus, via a series of preset potentiometers, as described below.

The preset potentiometers were designed to produce the three octaves.  If there had been room for a 3 way rotary switch in the body of the Beatbox, this would have been simple.  But there wasn’t.  There was room for a three way miniature toggle switch of the ON-OFF-ON type, so I decided to use one of these.

With a simple 3 way switch, it would just have required three presets, each adjusted to produce the same note in different octaves; but with the 3 way toggle it required the middle terminal to be permanently connected, and the other two pins – representing the switch in the ‘up’ or ‘down’ position – to be in parallel with the middle terminal resistor.  This proved quite complicated, and many adjustments were required before the 3 octaves became available.  The Stylophone functions in such a way that the lower the resistance, the higher the pitch.  As the rule about two resistors in parallel means that their combined resistance is always lower then the resistance of the lowest of the two, the middle position had to be the lowest octave, and the ‘up’ and ‘down’ positions had to be two octaves higher and one octave higher, respectively.

The integral switches on the board, operated by the plastic ring, duplicated the function of the toggle switch, allowing for momentary octave changes when either the left or right switch was depressed – this only really worked when the toggle switch was in the middle, ‘off’, position, but that was the most practical setting for most uses, I found.

An extra 10k resistor had to be placed in series with the stylus connection, to ensure that the correct pitch could be achieved with the tuning pot roughly in the centre of its travel.

Big Boy horizontal rearsm



Circuit bending is rather nicely described in the Wikipedia (at as the ‘creative customization’ of electronic devices such as ‘low voltage, battery-powered guitar effects, children’s toys and small digital synthesizers to create new musical or visual instruments and sound generators’.

The true method of approaching circuit-bending (IMHO, as they say) is experimental, without having – or without deliberately using – knowledge of the circuit you’re working on; the enjoyment of chance discovery is an important element of the experience, which is why I have distinguished it in my projects from ‘modification’, where I felt a knowledge of electronics and the circuitry being worked on was a useful thing.

The guru of circuit-bending is Qubais Reed Ghazala (, and his book Circuit-Bending : Build Your Own Alien Instruments (pub. Wiley, 2005, ISBN 978-0764588877) is the standard work on the subject.  It explains how he came to discover the idea of ‘bending’ – leaving a small, battery-powered amplifier in a desk drawer, the power on and the back off, where a metal object in the drawer touched parts of the circuit and produced marvellous noises – illustrates some of the instruments he has created over the years, and gives detailed instructions on how to ‘bend’ some popular electronic instruments and toys available today.

If you’re not able to obtain a copy of Reed Ghazala’s book, you can read about it on his website at, and follow a step-by-step tutorial at

A fabulous website for electronic music fans is; in this case a browse through their Circuit-bending forum at will throw up heaps of advice on what devices to get and what do with them once you’ve got them.  This may at the outset involve only making sure it’s using batteries, not plugged into the mains, switching it on, wetting your finger and poking the circuit board until something interesting happens.

So, if you’d like to get into electronic music, but are put off because you know nothing about electronics, then circuit-bending may be the thing for you, as Ghazala emphasises the fact that no knowledge is required!  Right at the beginning of Chapter 1 of his book he tells the story of taking his first circuit-bent instrument to school, ‘synthesizing birds, helicopters, and police sirens on the instrument, and running electricity through several people at a time so that we could play the device by touching each others’ bare flesh.’  His teacher is very impressed, looking at the dials and switches and hearing the extraordinary sounds.  ‘Mr Ghazala,’ he says, ‘I didn’t know you knew anything about electronics.’ ‘I leaned forward’, Ghazala tells us, ‘looked him straight in the eye, and said, ‘I don’t.’

At the time of writing I haven’t begun any of my planned projects in circuit-bending, but I’ve been collecting some suitable devices to work on.  I’ll report on these as soon as I’ve been able to get started; in the meantime, here are some of the items I’ve acquired.  I’m particularly interested in the human voice in this context, so you will see a Texas Instruments ‘Speak and Spell’ amongst them, a Vtech ‘Alphabet Apple’ and a Casio SK-60, famous for its ‘human voice’ presets.




Software and MIDI

If you’re interested in using computer software for making musical instruments or sound manipulation, there are several programs you can use, but my favourite is Pure Data.

The reasons I like it are:

1.  You can do a lot of different things with it

2.  You program it graphically, not by writing lines of text

3.  It’s free

4.  There’s a lot of help available, and a lot of people using it who are happy to share their experiences, and applications (or ‘patches’) they’ve written with it.

Another feature of the program, which I have not used myself, but which you might like, is its ability to handle graphics and video, and integrate these with sound.

You can read about PureData at, and also in the Wikipedia at  This is what Pure Data programming looks like:


This example shows MIDI information and audio information being used together as Pure Data can deal with them both.

From the Pure Data website, you can access manuals and tutorials, and a very helpful series of video lessons.  These are also on YouTube: just search under ‘Pure Data’.


The most practical version to use is ‘Pd-extended’, which you can download from here:  I use a Mac, but the program is also available for Windows and Linux.

[Edit: I believe that since I wrote the above, Pd-extended is no longer being developed, so you may consider using the unextended Pd ‘vanilla’.  I assume there is a straightforward way of adding the kind of features which Pd-ectended contains].

Another program for general use is MAX/MSP, which is very similar to Pure Data – in fact, it was invented by the same person, Miller Puckette.  The version you would use to create programs is not free, but the version you would use to run other people’s programming – ‘Max Runtime’  – is free.  It’s described at and can be downloaded from the Cycling 74 website at  There are Mac and Windows versions there.

Other programs I’ve used in this series of projects are to do with different methods of note input – in other words, programs which can interpret input from a QWERTY keyboard, a mouse, joystick, gamepad, etc., and allow you to use it for musical purposes.  These devices are collectively known as HIDs or Human Interface Devices, and programs such as Pure Data and MAX/MSP can readily be set up so these HIDs can be used as musical instrument controllers, just like a MIDI keyboard.

I’ve also used:

MIDI Integrator (a MAX/MSP application), which is an easy and efficient way to set your computer up to accept input from keyboard, mouse and so on and use them as MIDI controllers.  The program is described at and can be downloaded for free from there.

MIDI Integrator Screenshot

In fact, that website, ‘altKeyboards’ is a mine of information about alternative keyboard layouts, which I intend to write about separately at some point.  It’s well worth looking at this page to see what inspired author Ken Rushton (‘MusicScienceGuy’) to create MIDI Integrator.

Another MAX/MSP-based application is Alexander Refsum Jensenius’s ‘MultiControl’, which is able to recognize input from HID and convert the signals to MIDI output.  You can read about it and download it from here:


And finally, a program which is very good, but not free and available for Mac OS only, is ControllerMate.  ControllerMate is a very flexible and detailed program for customising input from of all kinds of HIDs.  It allows you to assign particular functions to all the buttons and controls on a device such as a keyboard, mouse, joystick etc., and to set up different named configurations – including multiple configurations for the same device – to make it quick and easy to use them for different purposes at different times.  ControllerMate is described at, and can be purchased from there.


These are the programs I’ve found most useful so far.  I’ll describe them in more detail when I report on the projects I used them for.


The Gemini – 3rd Mod

I was apprehensive about my third project, my final Stylophone mod for the time being, since it involved major surgery to two individual Stylophones, and I wasn’t really sure at the outset whether it would work.  In the end, in an unpredictable way of its own, it did!

The concept was simple, to generate two notes at the same time, using two Stylophone circuit boards operated by one stylus.  The ability to tune the fundamental note had to be retained, as well as means of selecting any harmony note – and, of course, it had to be possible to play the Stylophone as originally intended.

This photograph shows the main pitch control of the Gemini, the dual concentric potentiometer at the back left, as well as the fine tune, volume and blend controls on the back.  It also shows its decoration with signs of the zodiac stickers – I think the sign of Cancer (not visible) is the wrong way round, but this is not my fault, it was like that when I bought them.

Gemini high angle standard knobs sm

The first extra control to be added would be a 3 way rotary switch, to select ‘Normal’, ‘Harmony’ and ‘Modulated’ outputs.  This is just visible on the right hand side of the picture above.  ‘Normal’ would switch only one of the boards in circuit, with a mono output available to the internal speaker or to the headphone output; ‘Harmony’ would switch both boards in circuit, with one board available to the internal speaker, but both boards available to left and right sides respectively of the headphone output; in ‘Modulated’ mode, the outputs of the two boards were connected by diodes to allow the tones to interact with one another.

A dual 10k lin pot was used as a ‘Blend’ control, ranging from Board One (Oscillator 1) only to the left, and Board Two (Oscillator 2) only to the right, with varying mixes in between of the two tones produced.  A dual 10k log pot controlled the overall volume.  These were located in the circuit in place of the existing volume controls and both original volume pots and associated circuit boards were removed.

Pitch was to be controlled by a dual 500k concentric pot, the inner control for correct tuning of the fundamental pitch, the outer control for the harmony note, the interval being set by ear.  As this pot would cover a wide range, and the fundamental note would be difficult to set precisely, I decided to add a 10k lin pot, normally in centre position, in series with the inner pot, as a ‘Fine Tune’ control.

The first problem was to test if removing one stylus and connecting the ‘keys’ on one board to the corresponding keys on the other board would successfully enable one stylus on one keyboard to create two distinct notes at the same time.  Connecting the keys was easy enough, as each one has a small point – presumably included for testing purposes at the factory – to which wires could be connected.  To my relief, this procedure worked, two notes were produced simultaneously, and the interval set remained steady along the length of the keyboard.

The Stylophone’s original 3-way tone switch, as I had discovered on my first modification project, is a two-pole type, with only one pole used; so it was easy to connect the three wires from the two boards to other side of the same switch, to ensure the same tone was used on both boards.

I hoped the same would be possible with the vibrato, and connected the main boards together at the 3 inputs to the small board containing the power and vibrato switches.  This worked, too, and enabled one power on/off and one vibrato on/off switch to be used for both main boards.

It was the ‘mp3’ input/headphone output that caused difficulty, and I didn’t fully resolve this problem, I just got round it in a not entirely satisfactory way.  I had hoped that the outputs of the two amplifier boards would simply appear separate and equal at the headphone socket, and that a stereo input would appear as a stereo output.  (A stereo input is normally reproduced in mono through the internal speaker and the headphone output, as an unmodified Stylophone has only one mono amplifier in it).

I disconnected one of the mp3 inputs and one of the headphone outputs from Board One and replaced them with an input and an output from Board Two, in order to make this happen, but it was clear that one of the channels was leaking into the other one somewhere and the output was still mono, even though using two amplifier boards.  I had removed the 3.5mm sockets from Board Two, in order to fit this in the original case on top of Board One – maybe this had some effect on the stereo image, I don’t know.  But I eventually created a slightly stereo output by putting a 1k preset into the output of one channel, so Oscillator 1 was slightly to the left in the headphones, and Oscillator 2 slightly to the right.  This was the effect I was after in the first place, it just wasn’t the way I anticipated achieving it.

However, this was close enough to what I set out to create, so I considered the job done.

The following diagrams might help illustrate what I did and how I did it:

Gemini  Board 1b smGemini Board 2 sm

As it turned out, the pitches of the two oscillators couldn’t be set independently – raising the pitch of one would automatically lower the pitch of the other, and vice versa!  Not only that, but as the 500k pots were logarithmic the pitches would vary at different rates.  This apparent disadvantage, I decided, would be turned to an advantage – and would, in fact, be the whole point of ‘The Gemini’: the careful adjustment of the three pots to obtain a suitable pair of notes would become its principal performance feature.

The stylus, of course, was still fully functional, so as soon as a suitable interval was stumbled upon, this was playable up and down the keyboard.

Fitting everything back into the case was not easy, and involved quite a bit of rewiring to reduce the tangle of leads inside.  I had hoped to be able to fit everything in the original Stylophone case, but it soon became apparent that this wouldn’t be possible, so I aimed to deepen the case, as I had with ‘The Hedgehog’ – although not so drastically, as there would be fewer extra controls to add.  In the end doubling the depth proved adequate to contain the extra boards and wiring without unduly squashing them.  The extra piece of bodywork added to the case proved an ideal base for the zodiac motif stickers I added.

In use, the basic pitch seemed somewhat lower than originally intended, but it turns out that ‘The Gemini’ is perfect for bass sounds, and some excellent tones are obtained, especially in ‘Modulation’ mode.


December 2011

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